The OrangeRx Flight Stabilizer from Hobby King is a 3 Axis gyro system designed to stabilize the flight of a 4Ch type Airplane. It provides stabilization for the Aileron (roll), Elevator (Pitch) and Rudder (Yaw) Axis. It utilizes an Atmel 168 processor and an Invensense ITG3205 Mems 3 axis gyro chip. On the board is an Atmel AVR ISP 6 pin type programming connection making it available for some 3rd party future upgrades or possible upgrades from Hobby King (No announcement of this availability or promises of this availability has been seen to date). The board has 3 independent gyro gain dials as well as a 3 switch Dip switch for reversing the gyro channels.
I recommend that you fly the plane you plan to mount it on and try to achieve a mechanical setup that yields zero or near zero subtrims as well as full servo travel (100% ATV/Travel Adjust/Endpoint Adjust). Although these 2 steps are not required, they yield less problems in the end (like driving servos to the point of binding during flight or transport while on).
I recommend connecting up the system prior to gyro mounting to verify it is functioning properly.
Wire the Rx to the Stabilizer as follows:
1) Use Male to Male cables purchased separately.
2) Orient the Brown or Black lead of the cable to the outside edge of the board (shown as – on picture above) and the yellow or white lead towards the inside (shown as S on picture above).
3) Connect the Yellow AIL Input of the Stabilizer to the Aileron output of Rx
4) Connect the Yellow ELE Input of the Stabilizer to the Elevator output of the Rx
5) Connect the Yellow RUD Input of the Stabilizer to the Rudder output of the Rx
Wire the Servos to the Stabilizer as follows:
If you have 1 Aileron servo or 2 Aileron servos on a Y connector, connect to the Gray Ail[L] output of the Stabilizer. If you have 2 Aileron servos that are reversed from each other (connected on 2 separate channels in your TX, Mixed and reversed from each other), connect one to the Ail[L] and the other to the Ail[R]. Note that you MUST double check the Transmitter reversing before flight! Transmitter reversing is tested without moving airplane and ONLY moving sticks.
Connect Elevator Servo to Gray ELE output of the Stabilizer If you have 2 elevator servos and one is reversed from the other, you MUST install a separate Servo reverser supplied separately.
3) Connect the Rudder servo to the Gray RUD output of the Stabilizer.
There is a power connection available on the Orange Rx Stabilizer. So long as your RX is powered by a 5V power, and at least one of the servo wires going from the Rx to the Stabilizer has the Center Wire, you may leave this unconnected. Most people will not need to connect anything to the power input.. I do not know what the power tolerance is but I’m guessing they left this connection so you could isolate Rx power from Stabilizer power by removing the center wire of the RX to Stabilizer cables then use this power connection. You will know the Stabilizer is getting power from the Rx because the Red LED light on the Stabilizer near the Gain dials will come on when powered up.
Verifying TX reversing
If you have already flown your plane, making the above connections, you SHOULD NOT have to change the TX reversing, but you should test this now. Turn the gain dials of the Stabilizer all the way Counter Clock Wise (CCW). Power up Tx, then RX. Move the TX sticks and make sure all 3 axis respond correctly. Also verify none of the servos are binding. If so, fix this mechanically by adjusting the rods on the servo or surface horns.
Verify Gyro reversing.
For now, tape the stabilizer down to your plane with tape or foam tape in the approximate location you plan to put it at. Orientate the Stabilizer with the main label facing either Up or Down. Also face the servo connection either forward or towards the Rear. (Note, the orientation you do the gyro reversing MUST be the same as the way you plan to permanently install as orientation affects the gyro reversing). This will be suitable for initial testing.
Now with everything powered up, Turn the Aileron Dial all the way Clockwise (CW) to full gain. Quickly LIFT the right wing (roll plane left). The right aileron should have lifted up when you were lifting the right wing. If not, flip the AIL dip switch and try again. When you have it correct, reset the AIL dial to half way (50% gain).
Turn the Elevator Dial all the way Clockwise (CW) to full gain. Quickly lift the tail up. The Elevator should have moved UP when you lifted the tail. If not, flip the ELE dip switch and try again. When you have it correct, reset the ELE dial to half way (50% gain).
Turn the Rudder Dial all the way Clockwise (CW) to full gain. Quickly push the tail right (Nose left). The Rudder should have moved Right when you pushed the tail. If not, flip the RUD dip switch and try again. When you have it correct, reset the RUD dial to half way (50% gain).
Mount the gyro in the same orientation as you did the testing. Use some double foam tape such as Helicopter Gyro tape, or 3M Indoor/Outdoor tape (gray with red release paper). I recommend you avoid the 3M foam tape that is white with green letters. There are other mounting methods if you consult the RCGroups threads linked to on the first page. Do not tape directly to foam. I recommend you glue/epoxy some plastic or something to the foam first unless you can be assured that the gyro will not come loose in flight. A loose vibrating gyro can cause severe oscillations or an uncontrollable situation.
Double check your TX reversing and your Gyro reversing as described above!
Do a gyro test and TX test before EVERY FLIGHT. It does not take much time at all! The more you do it, the quicker it will take.
At the time of the release of this revision of document, It is confirmed that the Orange Rx gain dials are very sensitive and do not have a good linear range. In other words, from fully CCW (say 7 o’clock) to mid position (12 o’clock), the gain dials do virtually nothing. From 3 o’clock to 5 o’clock, the gain jumps dramatically. For this reason, I recommend starting your first flight with the gains almost turned down to nil. That would be the ½ way 12 o’clock position. Moving the airplane should barely (if at all) move the control surfaces. It should be like it was before you flew the airplane. Fly the plane, trim it out, then land. Start to bump up the gains 1/16 to 1/32 turns at a time. Use some common sense here. If you want to be cautious, do it 1 axis at a time. You may find that the aileron axis is the most sensitive. You want to test for oscillations, If you get oscillations, you need to dial the gains back. You will get the possibility of oscillations at various speeds. Ailerons tend to get the worse in a downward high-speed dive. Elevators and Rudders vary for each plane but for a complete test, you want to fly at various speeds before you know your gains are good. On a very windy day, you MAY see more or temporary oscillations and if so, dial the appropriate gain back. Keep in mind that too much gain also works the servos harder and CAN cause pre-mature wear on the motors or servo pots. Some people have reported reduced roll/loop rates when gains are higher. Keep that in mind and do your loops/roll testing with enough altitude before building confidence.
And most important:
Have FUN. If anyone criticizes you for using a gyro, just laugh at them when they pack up and go home due to the high winds or crosswinds!!!!!
lines, lost luggage, storm delays-flying during the holidays can
quickly turn you into Scrooge. But if you follow these tips, you'll
still be in the holiday spirit when you arrive at your destination.
Lose the layovers Avoid stopovers, especially in
airports such as Denver, Chicago, Detroit, and Minneapolis where
weather delays are common. If a connection is necessary, fly through a
Southern hub such as Dallas, Charlotte, or Phoenix, where you can at
least eliminate the possibility of weather being a problem.
Check in at home Most airlines' Web sites now make it possible for passengers to print out bar-coded boarding passes at home.
Beat the traffic If you live far from an airport and
have an early flight, stay at an airport hotel the night before; some
allow you to park your car at the hotel until you return. Check www.bestwestern.com.
Reserve parking During the holidays, airport parking
lots fill up fast. Luckily, you can reserve spaces ahead. Even better,
ask a neighbor to give you a lift or arrange for a shuttle.
Avoid gift glitches Leave the presents unwrapped
because security measures may require wrapped packages to be unwrapped.
Another option: To avoid gift wrapping late into the night after your
arrival, mail gifts ahead.
Carry on some fruitcake—and a sandwich Food is
nonexistent on most flights these days so bring a sandwich from home
and a holiday treat to keep yourself in the spirit.
Entertain the kids...or just yourself Play holiday movies such as Polar Express and Elf
on the DVD player; bring paper, stickers, and crayons to make holiday
cards; and pack travel Scrabble but play with new rules—holiday words
Spread the joy Pack a box of chocolates to pass out to other passengers, or bring a treat for the flight attendants.
Bedeck your bag The last thing you want to deal with is a piece of lost luggage so tie a red ribbon around the handle.
Build was straight
forward to me. You can use the included glue. I
let the glue sit for a minute before bonding the surfaces. I also
stress that you should dry fit everything first. One
thing is to hook up ALL of the electronics and test it before building.
On mine, I did pull the fan off and balanced it with a
prop balancer. Since I fly off of Grass, I elected to not
the landing gear so I could belly Land. I also added some
up front and on the top rear to allow more airflow. This
has ZERO air flow internally which you should have for the battery and
the ESC. Adding holes are a must! Some people have
Fiberglass or CF spars to the rear stabilizer. I still have not done
so. I try to fly scale with mine. You must however add in
of UP elevator prior to maiden as the angle of attack of the wing
requires you to do that or mount the rear stab with a matching downward
angle of attack. The build is less than an hour and your ready to
maiden. I used the recommended CG.
After Maiden (Hand
Launch) I put in 2 screws into the bottom of the wing to mark CG finger
points, then marked the battery position for future flights. It flew
well and hand launching was easier than I expected. You
have a 2nd person hand launch it if you elect to hand launch.
plane is heavy for it's size but the wing is generous and with dual
64mm fans, it will suck up power from the 2200mAh 3S that I used (I used a Gens
Ace 2200mAh 3S 25C pack)
I recommend you do most of your flight at 1/2 throttle and reserve the
full throttle for climb outs. Doin so, I set my timer for 5
mintues and don't fly beyond the 5. This plane truely is impressive in
the air just from the looks. I can do loops and rolls no problem. It
does not have a high thrust ratio like the Concept X or the Meteor
though so fly ahead of the model. We later put a 4S 1800mAh as well as
a heavier 4S 2200mah pack and the speed increase was noticable but the
stock wings can't take it in a high G turn. Wings will snap. You
have to use the full throttle sparingly because it will overheat the
motor and/or ESC.
Well, I wanted
to get other's opions on the plane and loaned it out to sever others.
One had a mishap and broke the nose some. No
glue'd it on and it was back in the air. Some people have added CF rods
to the wings and stabs to stiffen things up in a mishap or added
straping tape to the bottom of the main wing to sustain tigher loops
Conslusion: This planeis
a blast to fly and draws much attention at the field. It
really scale in the air (especially with the landing gear removed) and
belly lands/hand launches pretty well.(do not twist your
like you throw a football). This so far is my pick for the best "first EDF" ever. .
This 1200mm FW-190 is far nicer even than it looks- solid high-impact
plastic front end, retracts with sequential wheel cover doors, flaps,
lights, prop-mounted motor cooling fan, side cowl exhaust ports, and
massive amounts of detailing. (That's a 12" prop on there, by the way)
beautiful styling and workmanship, LOADS of power (the most powerful 3
cell plane in it's weight and size class!), and handling that gives you
true fighter performance- a perfect flyer that puts other planes in
it's class to shame! I was, at first, unhappy with the short gear-
until I flew it. As a flying machine, this FW-190 rules! My thought is
that the designer is a truly talented airframe man! If you've ever
flown the other HC warbirds, you'll know what I mean. His choice of
props was always wierd, for some reason (you need to change the props
on all his birds to bring out their truly amazing flight
characteristics) and they did change the prop on this one- the prop on
this plane is one of the most efficient on any warbird of this class-
this plane gives 4 cell speed on a 3 cell setup- it truly ROCKS!
I could go on and on about this truly gorgeous plane that was almost
never built! The designer I mentioned is Mr Liang of HC Hobby, the guy
who designed the HC Hobby Mosquito, B-25 (the first one that everyone
else like FMS copied) and the truly elegant HC A-10 The 20 people who
saw the original sole run of these FW-190s have been chomping at the
bit ever since.
OUR WAIT IS OVER!
The moulds for this gorgeous plane were purchased by Top RC,who began
production in November 2011,with some improvements,beleive it or not!
Better prop, Carbon Fiber Wing Spars, bigger motor, just to name a few.
We now carry this plane! WOO-HOOO!
Get your TopRC FW-190 today! I'll wager that you'll be contacting us
about how nuts you are about this plane! You can select extra stuff
from the menus above, like Crashproofing, extra props, (the plane comes
with one prop), extra prop spinners, batteries, etc. There's a
selection to have us enlarge the battery compartment if you want to fly
it with a 2650 or 3000mah like I do (we move the battery location and
reinforce the compartment with plastic plates) This baby fairly SCREAMS
with a 3000mah 3s 25c battery- that's what I have in her on the video.
Did I say WOO-HOOO yet?
I have one last thing to say- I like to sling planes around like
they're in a dogfight or coming after something on the ground, and I
love doing that at full throttle. Here's my tip of the day- if I were
going to purchcase only one warbird of this size class (around 1200mm),
I can tell you after flying loads of them- I'd get this one. Nuff said.
The REAL last thing: After getting the production run of these planes,
I have a few more comments. This plane is THE best packed plane I have
ever seen. The BOX is made of better foam than some planes, and, unlike
any other plane I've seen, has a complete cardboard box with a complete
foam inner box. All the parts are REALLY secure and protected, to the
point that major damage done to one of the boxes (which scared us
badly) didn't affect a single part of the plane inside. The quality of
everything this company does is simply top notch- I haven't ever seen a
better overall product in the RC plane world. After getting loads of
Dynam planes damaged (inside the undamaged box!) during shipping, this
is a refreshing alternative- a plane, and all it's parts and packaging,
done with forethought and care. Details like the HEAVY DUTY plastic
front end have to be seen to be believed- there is simply no other
foamie I've ever seen built like this one! BIG round of applause to
Retracts with sequential doors and wound spring suspension
Compatible with all Spektrum DSM2 transmitters.
The new range of OrangeRx receivers are built using original components
and MCUs and with state of the art SMT automation to ensure a quality
product each and every time.
All OrangeRx receivers are QC tested before leaving the factory.
The OrangeRx will work with ANY Spektrum DSM2 2.4Ghz transmitter The OrangeRx 6ch is
only 3.7g in weight and 19.5x30x10mm in size. Great for small planes,
helis, parkflyers or even medium sized sport planes.Key features.
Super light weight 3.7g / 9.8 grams with case!
Compatible with DSM2 aircraft radio and module systems
Compact design 19.5mm x 30mm x 10mm, with case 43x22x13mm
Short 29mm antennas for mounting in almost any location.
Input voltage: 3.7~9.6V Included.OrangeRx-6 DSM2 Compatible receiver Note: This is not a Spektrum Receiver but is Compatible with any Spektrum 2.4gHz, JR 2.4gHz DSM2 Transmitter. The Spektrum and DSM2 Brand is Trademarks of Horizon Hobbies USA
SHIPPED FROM THE US FOR... New Lower Price! $12.99 includes shipping
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SPECS: Compatible with all Spektrum DSM2 Air transmitters.
receivers are built using original components and MCUs and with state
of the art SMT automation to ensure a quality product each and every
All OrangeRx receivers are QC tested before leaving the factory.
The OrangeRx will work with ANY Aircraft Spektrum DSM2 2.4Ghz transmitter
The OrangeRx 6ch is only 3.7g in weight and 19.5x30x10mm in size. Great for small planes, helis, parkflyers or even medium sized sport planes. Key features.Super light weight 3.7g / 9.8 grams with case.
Compatible with DSM2 1024/2048 aircraft radio and module systems.
Compact design 19.5mm x 30mm x 10mm, with case 43x22x13mm.
Short 29mm antennas for mounting in almost any location.
Input voltage: 3.7~9.6V.
Satellite port included. (Increased redundancy and link strength)
Two CYP chips used. Making it a true outdoor receiver system. Warranty.12 Month replacement guarantee! Included.OrangeRx R610 DSM2 Compatible receiver
1) Accepted by the MAAA in Australia, see the MAAA MOP58 for guidance.
2) This is not a Spektrum receiver, nor is it a copy of a Spektrum Receiver.
The Spektrum brand is a trademark of Horizon Hobbies USA.
3) Price of this receiver may fluctuate (up or down) due to cost of electronic components.
4) This is not an underground manufactured fake Spektrum receiver. OrangeRx quality is guaranteed.